Merhaba Turkyie (Hello Turkey)

The Admiral and I made an executive decision. After talking with numerous sailors along the way, we decided to make a run for Istanbul, Turkey. Not a casual decision as it is a 400-500 mile detour, but everyone we talked with said things such as; "must go, wonderful, safe as can be for yachties, magical" (yeah, dropped the magical on us). To share the end result, we made it and it is true - fantastic place. Our first stop is a clearing in port called Ayvalik (eye-vah-lick), about 12 miles from Mitilini, Lesvos. This is the Devil's Table where the devil is rumored to enjoy dinner and parties, etc.

Instead of going right to a marina we go to a quiet anchorage around the corner and meet up with the folks on this boat. They are Pete and Cathy on Waverunner, hailing from Nelson, New Zealand. This is a neat town close to Picton where we bought Jungle. We introduced ourselves and had a cocktail night and a little breakfast in the morning together, cause that's what yachties do - a fun time.

And BAM - we're in Turkey! Today is Thursday and it is market day, so we go to the market. Among other things, Turkey is a Muslim country.

And the market has everything.

And more things.

This dude is selling women's dresses and is standing on his display table wearing one. Nice, but it makes him look a little "hippy" I think.

Still in the clothes section. They have vegetable section, meats, hardware, pipes, plates ... List goes on.

How much you ask? About 10-15 TL (Turkish Lira) or $ 6-9 US. See, I am observant.

We stop for a Turkish pizza (pide) on the way back - very tasty. Back at the marina, they handle all our paperwork for clearing in. Saves us a lot of back and forth with officials who speak little Eengleesh.

After our paperwork and 90 day visa are completed we are on our way the next day. Marinas are expensive (over $100 per night) so we do our best to minimize stays there.

As we leave the harbor a seaplane lands and crosses in front.

Dropping off some weekend visitors no doubt.

We travel north against the wind and current and make about 50 miles per day for about 10 hours of motor sailing per day. Its 200 miles from Ayvalik to Istanbul, so 4 days trip. We stop overnight then make our way into the Dardenelles which is the passageway into the Sea of Marmara and Istanbul. This is another of the busiest waterways in the world. This is the war memorial for Turkish military (WWII). They fought with the allies, after first declaring neutrality. We are looking left at the shores of Europe.

We look right to ferries crossing and the shores of Asia Minor. Turkey is one of two countries that span two continents. The other? Anyone?

We made it through into the Sea of Marmara and anchor at a little fishing village caller Kemer on the Asian (south) side.

Perfect weather, with little wind for the trip north - ideal.

Perfect sunset to boot. We notice the local fisherman taking their families out for a little family time. Family time is important here, and in Greece.

So, what does the captain do with all his spare time while sailing these 10 hour days. Why he tends to the ship of course. Jungle's teak badly needs a little treatment. So it's time for some sanding.

About 8-10 hours worth.

The thing with varnish is its 10% painting, 90% prep work.

For two days in a row, I was a complete, sweaty dirtball (dust ball). But it's ready to go.

We found a little anchorage on a deserted island. Peaceful.

One more anchorage before Istanbul. This on Heybeliada (hey-bell-ee-ah-dah) in the Princes Island chain, 9 miles south of Istanbul. Katie hopped up on the bimini top to check things out. She's a crazy girl, she's a funny girl, she's a wittle white wonderful ... Shoot me now, please. Unfortunately, our fridge died the other day, so we need to check into a marina to get it fixed. When we arrive we go to a boat shop (dont do fridges) and the lady managing the store calls and schedules the service for us and then acts as interpreter with the service guy who estimates, takes fridge off boat (no small feat) and does repair. The lady, Alev, then sends her husband, Jason, to our boat to handle final negotiations on the bill. BTW, Turks negotiate everything. All this for nothing. Wonderful people.

Istanbul ! What a interesting mix of east and west. Here we are in Suadiye (swa-day-ee) the Rodeo Drive of Istanbul with all upscale shops and people walking around. To get here we started walking and stopped a local for updated directions. He suggested we take a bus and asked if we have a bus card since they don't take cash. We said no, so he gave us his card and wouldn't take money. We get on the bus and it works for one of us but not the other. While the bus driver is explaining we are short by 2 lira, a lady passenger steps forward and scans her card to cover us. I try to pay her but she won't take it. We tell the bus driver where we want to go and a few passengers keep us posted on when our stop is coming. Wow!

Thank goodness it was only window shopping. We go back to our marina for dinner as Alev said it had a great restaurant and she was right. Great service, great food. Great Scott! Look at that mug!

We ferry over to the area of old Stamboul. We met up with an American Dennis Rutlege, S/V Runa, retired navy, living in Europe for the past 20 years and he acted as tour guide. We met Dennis through a lovely British couple, Neil and Pat on S/V Sea Griffin. They both arrived Istanbul via the Black Sea.

Dennis had us stop at a mosque - there are over 3000 in Istanbul alone.

Jenée had to cover up and sit in a separate section for women. First time for me and I kinda like these mosques, quiet, peaceful, stoic. C'mon, I'm kidding. They're not that stoic.

Next stop Grand Bazaar. What a place. Take your local big mall and multiply by 100.

This place has everything.

Everywhere.

I like Turkish Delight. I like candy. I'm pretty sure this is healthy candy.

Jenée likes shopping.

This is a side section of the Bazaar. Can you see the end, me neither. I'll summarize this update by saying we are loving Istanbul and couldn't feel safer. People have been wonderful everywhere we've been. This one shorter, Muslim lady on the crowded tram laughed as she squeezed past Jenée and I commenting on our height. A very pleasant experience so far.

 

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