Thursday, August 9, 2012

Loving Nisos Thassos

As mentioned in the last update we made our way from Turkey to the island of Thassos. We'll spend some time visiting and discussing this most beautiful island. Right now we remain in the southern village of Aliki (Alyki). We are anchored just outside this little harbor because we like being alone. Quite picturesque indeed.
The next day, as we stroll around, we find this little cove. Aliki has been inhabited for some 2700 years. A little longer than say, Green Harbor, MA, USA.

From the sea, these spots are difficult to pick up. Up close, they are wonderful.

These are Roman ruins dating back about 2000 years. It includes places of worship, sarcophagus, kilns for making pottery, homes, etc.

We go back to the same restaurant, Beatiful Alice, because we are out of Euros, there is no ATM and no one takes Visa (long story, tax related). Demitra said no problem, eat now, pay later. Love the Greeks.

Here is our anchorage and we are the only boat - just the way we like it.

We make it to the Capitol of Thassos Town (Limenas). Thassos is the northern most of the Greek Islands. We are thinking it may be the prettiest, but we'll explore to confirm.

Jungle is side docked - no charge. Yes, we love the Greek Islands.

We rented a scooter and I always like to keep my ride next to our ship.

Here's a commercial break for one of the joys of cruising! Stuff that breaks. This doo-hickey is a Vetus Bow Thruster, and it's broken. On a 22 ton boat, maneuverability in tight quarters can be challenging in both forward and reverse. This baby pushes the bow right or left, which in turn pushes the stern left or right when backing up.


Jenée suggests I do a google search on marine repair and we locate Antonis. He comes in the next day, diagnoses the problem, faulty solenoid, (thingy with the two square metal plates) and takes the complete unit away for repair.

BTW, 2 hours after landing in Limenas, the sailboat behind us slams into our dinghy and blows a hole in it. Of course, we are not there and the dip wad takes off without an apology. I've repaired and clamped the leak area, we'll see how it works. Smiles all around.

More work needs to be done the next day to get our SCUBA tank filled. I locate a place on the other side (south) of the island, near Aliki. We also need to pay our dinner tab there, so off we go with tank strapped to the scooter. Opah! Nice views on the way.

Could be worse I suppose.

We are traveling south on the islands east coast and seeing from land the sights we saw on the way up the day before. Not bad.

Always a different view from land.

Here is a little cove we thought about anchoring in. Very nice.

Jenée zooms in and we see the little beach and the boats anchored.

May be tough to see, but there is a Monastary overlooking another cove.

We get to our destination of Pefkari (Pescari). We drop off the tank at the dive shop and grab lunch next door.

Nice views here. What a surprise. The place next door isn't too shabby either.

Cool vintage car in the parking lot.

That night we walk to a little beach bar near our boat for a sunset snack and cocktail. Did I forget to mention our fridge stunk to high heaven from losing power while Jungle sat in Turkey. We are cleaning it out once again and are forced to eat out. Oh darn.

The next morning we set out for a hike. Up the mountain to see the Roman Theater, circa long ass time ago.

It's quite a hike up and the gate is closed, so we decide to keep hiking up to find a way around to the theater.

We keep going up ...

And up, until we find these ruins of a medieval castle built in 1259 at the very top. Looking back down to the town. We definitely blew past the theater.

Hold up that wall please darling for this shot. Perfect.

Pine trees all around. We are at the same lattitude as New York City (40 42 N). Same climate, including winter snow. This island is very green and a bit more humid.

Made it. The castle was built on top of the Limenas Acropolis (Literal translation, city on the edge). The world famous Acropolis is in Athens, but most of these islands had one. Built high on cliffs, they provided great lookout and defense.

And now, great views of Limenas and the Aegean Sea.

We head back down and you can see mainland Greece 5 miles away. We were told by many sailors it was too late in the season to head north in the Aegean Sea. Not for Jungle and crew.

We eventually find a path that leads us to the back side of the theater. Off in the distance, you can see the seawall of the old harbor first, followed by the new harbor, where Jungle rests.

The nice workers there wave us in and unlock the gate. Turns out, this Roman Theater is one of the best kept in the world and is still used for weekly concerts. You can see much of the marble benches.

We continue down the backside of the theater and I decide to hold up this 2400 year old wall. This wall still stands in many places around the hills. You are constantly amazed by the amount and size of stone brought high up these hills for building these structures. I'm amazed. It's amazing!

We are getting to the bottom and see a secluded point (Ak) and a couple of fishermen on the rocks.

We continue down these ancient stairs.

And voila! We find this cafe at the point of land just outside of town. Again we see the northern section of mainland Greece.

I originally came across this place on line, by accident while searching on line for Thassos boat yards. Now I come across it quite by accident on foot. It's my lucky day.



It is still a working boatyard that hides the cafe. I told Jenée we had to find this place and check it out, so now we will. We may need a boatyard if the bow thruster repair gets complicated.

We will have two Frappes (Greek iced coffee) while sitting on the beach. Yassas!

Later we motor down to a little village of Panagia that Jenée spotted the day before to check out. We had a great lunch and I caught up with my boys in a minstral band. The clarinet guy is blowing like Benny Goodman - not bad. I dig a minstral band (think Mexican mariachi - they ain't leaving until somebody gets paid). Turns out, they are all from Bulgaria. Oh yeah, they got a tip.

On our way home we check out the marble quarry. I've never seen one close up. Turns out the whole island is made of marble and it's been one of the main products of the island, along with gold and silver. The island was quite wealthy for a long time. Today it's more of a Greek only tourist spot as its off the beaten path for most island hoppers. We are loving it.

Check out the size of the cuts. This is a full sized Catapillar tractor. Unbelievable. There is so much marble that the old harbor was lined with a marble floor on the bottom (are you kidding me). It is now silted over and a bit shallow in spots. Most visitors, such as us, go next door to Nea Limani (New Harbor).

That night we go back through the old boatyard and cafe that we came upon this morning to view the sunset. Never got the name of the place, but it looks both east and west so pick your time. Tonight it's for sunset.

Here is a picture of the boatyard in the 50's.

Here is a more recent photo where you can see cafe and boats still be built from scratch. The place has been in the same family for over 100 years. You can also see the little Greek church (in color).

And here we are tonight.

Enjoying the lovely view.

The lovely sunset.

Each others company.

Oh, I'm feeling giddy again.

Kali Nitka (Good Night).

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Leaving Turkey

We arrived back in Istanbul safe and sound after a 16 hour travel red eye on KLM. Unfortunately the Dock breaker blew and the refridgerator/freezer shut down. It was a very smelly experience that we are still working our way through. We had Katie the fluff ball tended to while we were in Boston, but didn't consider the loss of power. Oh well. We sailed the next afternoon 25 miles to Eregli Limani. The following day was a longer run of 65 miles (12 hours) to the end of the Sea of Marmara in the town of Gelibolu.

I had scoped out this nice little anchorage just outside the busy town to settle in for the evening. Jenée was making one of her specialties - tacos (we bought corn tortillas in Marshfield) - it was going to be a great night. Nice sunset.

Nice quiet spot. I was on deck waiting for dinner then I hear a whistle and someone yelling from the shore line. He's in military uniform and with a second guy. He's yelling in Turkish and pointing to a sign that I hadn't noticed until then. I pull out my binoculars and see a warning sign with a military figure holding a rifle. The sign was all shot up. A firing range! Merhaba, bye, bye. They gave me a nice big wave goodbye as we pulled up anchor. Tacos will have to wait.

Wait, it gets worse. We pull around the point, about 2 miles to the main harbor which looks quiet enough and it is Ramadan (Muslim holy period).

Then, BAM. The sun goes own and the carnival lights go up about 50 meters from our boat. To add to the fun the carnies are blasting the worst Turkish disco music we've ever heard. With catchy lyrics such as "you know you want it" sang 600 times in a row - the whole 8 minute song was one line in English repeated over and over. Also featured was "you got to BOOM, BOOM, BOOM, I got to BOOM, BOOM, BOOM." Yeah baby, them Turks know how to party. Last I saw Jenée she was attempting to pour candle wax in her ease to dampen the sound. The next morning a ferry operator yelled for me to move the boat out of his way. Hey, at least we got a full 2.5 hours sleep.

We made it quite early to our next destination of Çanakkale (Chan-a-kali). That little squiggle on the bottom of the c gives it a cha sound - now you know. Š is sha sound, wow, you've learned so much. We came hear to officially check out of Turkey. We've met people who didn't do this right and one couple ended up in jail on their return. Cue the music from Midnight Express ("Villiam Ayes" - if you saw the movie, you get it). So, while waiting for the authorities we come across this horsie. We are very close to the site of ancient Troy (3000 BC) and this horse is from the movie with Brad Pitt. Never saw it but I know they filmed it in Cabo San Lucas because we were there.

I was kinda bummed because I thought maybe they dug this up. No, it's a stage prop. By the way Troy is also called Troia, Vilusa and Illion. The name of Illion gave name to Homer's epic; Iliad. You just don't get this type of info anywhere. Anyhow, I still struggle how 24 Greek guys hung out in this horse and weren't spotted. "Hey look at that, the wooden horse is peeing, wait a minute!" Great story though, I'll watch the movie on cable. It's about a war started over a woman and money, go figure.

After clearing out of Turkey, we make one final stop for the night on the island if Gokçeada (Gok-chi-ada), formerly the Greek Island of Imbroz). This Is primarily a military island so you could say we are pushing our luck, but it's just another deserted anchorage on our way north to Nisos Thasos and the Greek mainland.

Jenée even matches the island, how nice.

And Katie gets on deck for a little exploring.

She's happy to have us home.

What a striking pose.

Another quiet sunset for Jungle and crew.

We arrived Thasos and settled down to a nice dinner in the beach village of Aliki. Yassou!