Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Boy, that was Quick!

We made the crossing on Easter Sunday - Happy Easter everyone. We actually had a great sail for the 50 mile crossing - traveling at 7.5 to 8 kts (flying) under partially reefed sails. We are a couple of miles outside of our destination, in clear view of the inlet to the harbor, feeling great - when our story gets interesting. We towed our dinghy behind instead of raising it up on the davits (hoists on stern) - um, bad call. Captain Jimbo decides to check on the dinghy - no dinghy. Now, this is what you call an emergency as our "family car" is missing - replacement cost $15-16 K. We have insurance, but at this point a wicked hassle.

We had a decision to make; curl up in the fetal position and scream "we're not gonna make it!" - one I was favoring since I tied the damn thing off. Or, circle back south and pick a trajectory that assumes wind drift, current, etc. to hopefully intercept the boat somewhere out there. Now most sailors would say "good luck" as that is a BIG ocean out there. Personally, I was very confident we would find it - for about 30 minutes. Let me tell you, you keep scanning the horizon long enough, you start seeing things. "Is that ..., no." 35 min, 40 min, no sight of the harbor or land we turned away from. 45, 50 minutes go by. We are 7 miles south from our turn around point and per the chart plotter we are 1.5 miles east of our track coming up. Finally, Jenee spots it 100 yards off our port (back towards they way we came up). Hall-e-lu-jah baby! The picture above is the rescued dinghy tie to the back of Jungle as the seas were to rough to hoist it up on the davits - honest.

We are now back in Marsh Harbor, peacefully preparing our sail to Bermuda.





We left the Exumas and sailed for two days (50 miles a day) north to Royal Harbor at the tip of the Eleuthra Islands. This was our staging spot for the 50 mile crossing over Northeast Providence Channel (Atlantic Ocean) to Little Harbor in the Abacos. We're heading back to get Jungle ready to cross the Atlantic to Portugal. We will also meet our sailing friends Ron and Linda who will help us make the 6-7 day passage. The weather was not ideal as it was blowing 25-35 kts with 6-10 ft seas - a little bumpy, but nothing Jungle can't handle.


We spent this night in Royal harbor, which was to be an upscale resort with golf courses and all. Roger Staurbach and Jack Nicklaus were behind it, but everything stopped a few years ago - sorry boys. We did see this 100+ ft, schooner sail in. The folks on board appeared to be more tourist-o types than sailors so we assumed this was a charter.


Here's the happy couple now.


We were told about this neat little island resort - Foul Cay Resort, near Staniel Cay. Well, the admiral just had to go to dinner there. Nice folks there, nice resort. You get a golf cart and ski boat with your room.



The Jungle crew is wrapping up their Exuma Experience with a visit to Staniel Cay and Blackpoint - two happening and friendly stops on the southern most point of our Bahama trip. Staniel Cay has these caves called the Grotto where some famous scenes were shot in Thunderball (James Bond flick). At low tide we anchored our dinghy outside the caves and snorkled in. It's pretty cool as you can swim around inside, you see all these fish and the sunlight comes through holes in the ceiling. I hummed the James Bond theme while swimming around which made me a lot cooler. Yes, Ms. Mony Penny. Later, we snorkled at a place called the aquarium. Both places had lots of fish and lots of people - we liked the fish better.


Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Chillin' in the Exumas

And it didn't disappoint. Goodnight everyone!


The lizard really tired us out, so it's time for a Jungle sunset.


But we got a cool shot of this lizard! Wow-wee!


Back inside Rachel's Bath we were not so lucky as we waited a while - no waves - no bubble bath.


We were lucky to catch a wave going over at this low tide.


We visited Wardrick Wells for a night as the park headquarters are located there. Just south is Cambridge Cay and Compass Cay. On Compass we find an area called Rachel's Bubble Bath. It's where the ocean waters break over a natural rock dam and foam into this pool of water. We got there at low tide, so the pool was quite warm and the waves were just starting to break over. Here's a view from the ocean side as the waves rush up. You see the Rachel's Bubble Bath just over the rocks.


Back on board, I just had to take this picture of the water - look how clear. We've had a bright moon the last couple of days and we can see the bottom at night!


Good thing we had enough water as the climb up and down took nearly 30 minutes!


And treacherous rock face.


It was quite a hike - at least dozens of feet above sea level!


Enough of that, let's go hiking! We checked out the ruins of the Loyalists (remember them) that date back to 1785. The Russell family was given this property by the King of England and they lasted until 1900. Unfortunately, the farming business doesn't pan out to well in these climes.


Here's another shallow pool that goes from ankle deep to over the head in one step. Oh yeah, Jenée's in the picture too.


The colors are spectacular.


I know what some of you are saying, "Jim, your use of color, perfectly framed, you are an artiste! No?!" To this I humbly say "Merci beau coup, Madames, Monsieurs" But I again, how you say, digress.



We sailed south from Shroud Cay to Hawksbill Cay and take a dinghy ride to the northern point of the island where we find these pristine sandbars at low tide. Miles of clean white sand bars contrasting against the aqua blue waters.






Working Girl





I'm sure there are comments out there from folks saying I may not be a gentleman. To that I say "Who are you calling Gentleman ?! How dare you !" I am a sailor !

Monday, April 18, 2011

Exuma Paradise

It's also where a sailor in the late 60's built himself a camp to hang out for a time. The DEA used the camp (on top of a hill) as a place to monitor Carlos Lehder since his island is only 100s of yards away. For us it was the culmination of another great day in the Bahamas.


This is one of the only locations to find stacked coral in the Bahamas.



The contrast in color at the different depths is spectacular.



This was our reward - the other side. The camera does OK, but you have to see this water for yourself. It's the most beautiful we have ever seen.



Actually, I am standing for this, how else can I take these photos! Duh !!! Here I am giving Jenée kudos for job well done and permission to come aboard - Captain's work never done!




Whoa Nellie - that water is getting deep! I won't stand for this!



Well, that didn't quite work, so the Admiral is now guiding the dinghy through the shallow waters. I'm back tending to the engine and whatnot - I'm holding up OK - thanks for asking.



The Admiral did her best to provide forward ballast to ensure the prop didn't drag.



Here we are heading down the mouth of the river - very tidal and shallow at this point.



Shroud Cay is also the beginning of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park - about 150 square miles of untouched beauty.



From Norman's Cay we sailed south to Shroud Cay. This island initially sounded ho-hum. But we both wanted to see a salt water river that cut across the northern tip of the island and we're glad we did. How's this for an anchorage. When we bought Jungle, we wanted a shallow draft boat just for anchorages like this - perfect-o!



We then sailed south to Norman's Cay, an infamous place from the early 70's as a hiding place for drug lord Carlos Lehder. Ole' Carlos wasn't to bad a guy to those that new him, I guess. He built an airport (still in use), held big parties and dealt blow. On one deal gone bad, a 707 didn't quite make it off the runway and still sits half in/half out of the water - nice diving spot. The place is all cleaned up now as the DEA worked to bring Carlos down successfully. Jenée and I just finished a great dinner at the Norman's Cay Beach Club, the only restaurant on the island.




Jenée got a nice closeup of island nature.




As you can see, public transportation runs a tad slow in the Bahamas! Them Bahamians are funny.



We made it to the beautiful Exuma Islands; the pearl necklace of the Bahamas! We sailed for 2 days south of the Abacos Is., through the Eleuthera Is. and finally into Highbourne Cay. From our spot, Jenée got up before daybreak and walked to the other side to the Tongue of the Ocean, catchy name. It's basically a deep water feed off the Atlantic that separates the Exuma and Eleuthera Is. Where was I? Well, I was recuperating - from sleeping.



Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Hopetown - Before Sailing South to Exumas

A beautiful view of Jungle at rest outside the harbor. We find it much more comfortable and breezy outside the harbors. And, better swimming.
And quite the views. I know what your thinking, "wow, nice neck".

You want lighthouses - we got lighthouses!



That view overlooking the bay included this island home.


This is one of the streets. This is Queens Highway (every island has a Queens Highway) and is restricted to pedestrians. As mentioned before the golf carts are limited to the "super highways".


We took a break at one of the many scenic vistas on the island. This was the end of a street (cart path) that looked out over the bay coming into the harbor.


Jenée is standing in the entrance to one of the dinghy docks - nice entrance!


Isn't this an idyllic picture of the harbor! Set up all nice and pretty for us.


This is th Lighthouse Marina inside the harbor. Not sure where it got it's name from.


We're now anchored outside of Hopetown on Elbow Cay. Our last visit before heading to the Exumas. This is Alex and Carol from S/V Nepenthe. We run into them at just about every anchorage and enjoy our time with them. Here we are racing into Hopetown Harbor. We lost, must be bad gas.



Friday, April 8, 2011

Man-O-War Cay

As always, the end of another great day has us relaxing on Jungle.
And on the beach, Jenée was happy at work - seashelling. She has some in her left hand now.



First, here's the staircase access to the beach.


I know what you're thinking; "get to the beach already!" Patience ...


Cool, someone to take our picture together.



And here is our host. John was nice enough to give us a tour of the property - called Seaglass Found.



And to the north.



And beautiful views of the Atlantic Ocean to the south ...



The top of the hill brings us to John's beautiful home.



Not a bad garage.



This is John's driveway.



We took our dinghy to the north of the island to pay a visit to Charlie and Saundra's son John. We didn't expect him there but wanted to visit the property. This is the drive to his home.



We really enjoyed walking around the settlement. The golf cart is the main means of transportation in these Cays. The streets are cart paths and the highways (Man-O-War has Queens Highway) is a wider cart path. Views like this everywhere you look.



We headed out of Marsh Harbor for a short sail to Man-O-War Cay. This is a beautiful little place that our sailing friends, Charlie and Saundra highly recommended. You can see Jungle to the left, moored in the small harbor.